When Agatha Christie was about to accompany her husband Max Mallowan on his excavations between the wars she was often asked "Where are you going to dig?" to which she replied "Syria". 

This usually met with the response "Yes, of course - Syria". Biblical memories stir. "Let me see, that’s Palestine, isn’t it?" 

The question for us was not Where? but Whether? - as we were due to travel one month after September 11th. Nevertheless October 10th came and we all duly met at the Heathrow only to find that our flight had been cancelled, though not - as we later discovered - for any sinister reason or because we were 13 in number!

Arriving a date late in Syria any misgivings we might have had soon disappeared with the warmth of the Syrian welcome, most of all from our guide Ahmed.

So what were our overwhelming impressions, experiences and memories?  - a wonderfully varied countryside, friendly people and fascinating archaeological sites, usually with only us there. 

The Lobby of the Baron Hotel, Aleppo 
(J.Tubb, 1997) 
The Baron Hotel preserves many of the original design features of the French Mandate building of the 1920’s, recalling the ‘golden age’ of travel.

At Qatna we were shown round by various members of the multinational team, becoming so involved that the last part of the tour was done by torchlight! The final highlight was going back to the dig house to see such finds as the fragments of beautifully painted wall plaster and seal impressions. 

At Ebla, we sat in the dig house’s elegant courtyard drinking coffee and listening to Professor Matthiae recounting at length his years of excavation prior to a detailed tour of the site.

An overwhelming experience for all of us was an almost deserted Palmyra.

The realities of present-day politics were brought home to us when we could only view through binoculars the mound of Carchemish across the River Euphrates (the border at this point between Syria and Turkey) and later saw Til Barsip now practically submerged by the rising waters of the Tishrin dam. 

The following day we crossed the Turkish border officially (albeit taking a whole morning to do so) to visit the site of Tell Atchana (Alalakh).    Now sadly overgrown, the site had a neglected air but Woolley’s dig house survives to provide an evocative reminder of the pioneering days of British archaeology in the inter-war years;  his granite washbasin and lavatory will last for ever, but more remarkable were the original handwritten shelf labels remaining in his storeroom! 

Our home in Aleppo was the once famous Baron Hotel with its memories of its guests T.E. Lawrence, Max Mallowan and Agatha Christie. Although partially modernised, it still retains many features, such as its beautifully tiled floors - and possibly some of its plumbing - and the same friendliness of welcome they would have recognised. It was at the Baron that we experienced what was essentially Syrian home cooking at its best. 

Elsewhere the quality of food varied and did not agree with everybody, but the remedy prescribed by our leader and guide was large quantities of Arak! In one exciting last day in Aleppo, we combined visits to the excellent Archaeological Museum, the Citadel built on the ancient tell that dominates the city and provides spectacular views, and the bustle and colour of the ancient souk where we spent our last Syrian pounds. 

On reflection as we left Syria tired - from all those tells we clambered up and down - but happy, each of us could echo Agatha Christie’s sentiments on leaving: 

Inshallah, I shall go there again .... 

Jane Callander
Janet Kelsey 

Quotes from:  
Agatha Christie Mallowan, Come, Tell me how you live. (Harper Collins Press, 1999)